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Jamie (KMG-365) > The raw materials: a scrap of 5/4" plywood with a 1"W X ~4"-5" L X 1/4" deep channel routered out to accept the stainless steel barstock. A scrap of SS barstock 1/4" thick X 1" W X ~20" long. I bent the bar in a compound curve with a 7' long piece of 2" diameter galvanized pipe (like on a chain-link fence) and a vise.
Jamie (KMG-365) > The Top-of-the-Line rack for the GS is 60.00 cheaper than the one for the RT--you don't need the extra mounting bracket if you drill+countersink the rack and widen the slots in the RT's rack to accept the SS M5 bolts and nylock nuts. I used the small piece of aluminum flat stock with the two nuts pressed into it that comes with the GS rack for mounting on the GS. The shot shows the original pan-head screws which I later replaced with counter-sunk screws so they would be flush with the backside of the SS bar and not eventually rub a hole in the leather. I drilled two holes in the TOL rack and mounted the backrest to the underside with more SS bolts and nylock nuts.
Jamie (KMG-365) > The uncovered backrest installed on the RT's stock rack. Note the Helen-Two-Wheels D-Ring tie-down straps. I keep them wrapped around the rack until needed. Slick!!!!
Jamie (KMG-365) > View from the back. I think this shows the old pan head screws on the backside.
Jamie (KMG-365) > The new countersunk screws covered with a piece of duct tape. The backrest is now ready to be covered. I rounded over the corners of the plywood a bit and sanded the whole thing down till it was completely smooth.
Jamie (KMG-365) > I dismantled a dual helmet lock that mounted behind the license plate (Helmet Guardian) and mounted the individual helmet locks to the underside. Again, I countersunk the holes in the TOL rack so the screws are flush with the top surface.
Jamie (KMG-365) > Detail shot of one helmet lock.
Jamie (KMG-365) > The finished backrest! Looks sweet, no? :-) I can get so much more into a Helen-Two-Wheels dry-bag type duffel on that rack than any top box. Reflective covered nylon strips sewn lengthwise accept the D-ring straps and I'm good to go! (Thanks Helen! You Rock!)
Jamie (KMG-365) > Finishing touches: a SS fender washer just smaller than the BMW rondel screwed through the leather directly into the plywood with a countersink head metric SS screw. The BMW rondel is just peel-and-stick to the fender washer.
The raw materials: a scrap of 5/4" plywood with a 1"W X ~4"-5" L X 1/4" deep channel routered out to accept the stainless steel barstock. A scrap of SS barstock 1/4" thick X 1" W X ~20" long. I bent the bar in a compound curve with a 7' long piece of 2" diameter galvanized pipe (like on a chain-link fence) and a vise.
Jamie (KMG-365) > The raw materials: a scrap of 5/4" plywood with a 1"W X ~4"-5" L X 1/4" deep channel routered out to accept the stainless steel barstock. A scrap of SS barstock 1/4" thick X 1" W X ~20" long. I bent the bar in a compound curve with a 7' long piece of 2" diameter galvanized pipe (like on a chain-link fence) and a vise.
The raw materials: a scrap of 5/4" plywood with a 1"W X ~4"-5" L X 1/4" deep channel routered out to accept the stainless steel barstock. A scrap of SS barstock 1/4" thick X 1" W X ~20" long. I bent the bar in a compound curve with a 7' long piece of 2" diameter galvanized pipe (like on a chain-link fence) and a vise.
See photo in gallery
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